SIGHTSEEING IN ANKARA

TO SEE THE ATATURK MAUSOLEUM IS TO UNDERSTAND SOMETHING OF 20TH CENTURY TURKISH HISTORY AND THE FIERCE PRIDE OF THE TURKS FOR THEIR COUNTRY

This morning, after the now familiar shuttle ride, we split up to see different things. The Lehrers went with Hilmi to see modern paintings, whereas Leslie took us to see the Anit Kabir - the mausoleum built between 1944 and 1953 by the Turks for their revered leader Atatürk - after he died prematurely at 57 in 1938. It stands as a modern (and complete) version of the many temples, we have seen. We are impressed with the number of Turkish groups visiting: children of all ages with their teachers, women with headscarves, young athletes in club outfits - not many tourists at all. 

Whereas the building is impressive and photogenic, it is the museum dedicated to Atatürk’s military feats and his personal effects that are the most interesting. The most important battle scenes have been recreated dramatically in long tableaux with sound effects, and by the end of the third you feel utterly depressed with the carnage of it all. It is almost a relief to consider Atatürk’s slender and elegant shoes, his silk pajamas suits and coats. He was a very handsome man with brilliant blue eyes, which we see represented in the many paintings and wax figures. He was also an avid reader with a huge personal library. Before leaving we take a look at his cars and his boat, housed in a different part of the mausoleum.

After admiring the meticulous gardening (the whole place is run by the military) in the surrounding area we grab a taxi to the Citadel area where we meet the Lehrers and Hilmi for lunch, in my case a crispy thin pancake (made by an peasant woman sitting on the floor next to a heated stone) filled with a slightly salty and gritty cheese accompanied by hot black tea served in a glass; others have Turkish ravioli.

We let the Hilmis go - we should be able to manage eventually to catch a taxi back home - and head into the acclaimed Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. We spend a hour or so walking amongst the many beautiful artifacts - pots, bowls, glass objects, jewelry, an exhibition on MIdas...there is just so much to see. A handsome Hermes statue stands next to a photographical explanation of his discovery and excavation. It is thrilling to see that ancient white marble emerge from the dirt - and the archaeologists do indeed look very happy.

After a refreshing Turkish coffee we head steeply uphill to the citadel, an ancient dwelling area constructed around and inside the walls of the castle there. After passing through a street fair we sit on a high-up balcony enjoying a beautiful view of the city and a cold glass of Efes. We notice many hillside slum areas reminiscent of Rio. Apparently, Leslie had explained earlier, there is a law (“gecekondu”) that will give you right to occupation of land, if you can construct a house overnight. Thus teams of needy friends and relatives have become experts at rapid construction in the poor areas. We ‘cariocas’ know only too well how this goes...

We finish off the night with a stately dinner in a private hotel dining room. As we step outside to find a cab, Hilmi reaches for his cigarettes and announces this is his 2nd last cigarette. We document this important moment and - with the experience of having quit ourselves many years ago - wish him good luck!