Thursday, August 16, 2012

TOPKAPI AND THE UNDERGROUND CISTERNS



TODAY WAS A GORGEOUS SUNNY AND WINDY DAY.
THE WIND BLEW THE SMOG AWAY AND REVEALED THE BEAUTIFUL TURQUOISE BLUE OF THE BOSPORUS STRAIT
Friday, May 23rd, 2008
Woke up late to discover that my phone with its expensive Turkish SIM card purchased yesterday has been blocked. This after wordy messages in incomprehensible Turkish had appeared on my screen, all of which I deleted, of course. Turned out I was supposed to register the phone - they could have said this (but didn’t), and now it will take 5 days to do start the process over. We push this to the back of our minds and march over to the Topkapi palace, where we spend the whole day, there is just so much to see, battling for space with the hundreds of schoolchildren (many of whom now know my name!), who are out for the day. I am innocently taking pictures of the Sultan's garments, when over the din of the many children I hear the angry shouting of a guard. He may be screaming for the children to quiet down, but also at me, who has failed to see the little sign that says NO PHOTOS. I am so shocked at being screamed at that I feel quite rattled, but after that am very careful about when I can use the camera. There is something strange about the massive wealth showered on the Sultan - the emeralds are the biggest I have ever seen - and so many! Not to mention rubies and diamonds. There is a whole throne in solid gold liberally dotted with large emeralds over every available surface. Meanwhile the concubines ‘recruited’ from all over the country were confined to the Harem under the command of the Sultan’s mom.

The less accomplished and/or unattractive girls ended up as servants, whereas the luckier one, the ones that bore the Sultan’s children, got to live near his mother in nicer apartments. They never left the Harem, of course.
We take a lunch break in the Konyali restaurant set in the grounds of the palace and overlooking the Sea of Marmara. Oswaldo, with his parking-place-finding karma finds us a perfect table, where we enjoy cold beer and Turkish specialties.

On our weary way back to the hotel we find the Basilica Cisterns, deep underground and curiously restful with the cool humid air and columns lit in red and orange. Oswaldo and I then struggle uphill to deal with Turkcell, stopping to make a couple of purchases in a local English bookstore (one should always support bookstores!), and eventually accept that we have to BUY yet another phone (we’ve lost count of how many we have at home) - and then we drag ourselves home. Outside a little kitten is stuck somewhere and meowing steadily waiting to be found. I try, but cannot see her. Later we slip out to try local Raki, surprisingly pleasant and smooth milky anise-tasting liquor with a light meal, but when we get back, and even now, much later as I write this, the kitten is still hoping to be found. Here are the photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/siric/sets/72157631337199830/

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